Monday, November 17, 2008

sunday drive...

So yesterday we drove down toward Nogales to run an errand...

On the way back up, I stopped at a highway rest-area to take a couple photos of the western end of the Santa Rita mountains, where I went hiking in Madera Canyon last weekend...

These are probably the last of the summer wildflowers before the first winter freeze--which usually arrives in late-December...

The distinctive lower peak to the right is Elephant Head Rock, 5641', between Mt. Hopkins on the right and Mt. Wrightson in the middle.
==============================
No less, ahem, 'picturesque,' is this mural back in Tucson:

Note how elegantly it captures the desert sunrise over the grid of city lights...with the liquor drive-in window perfectly placed on the left. Yes, 'drive-in liquor.' Scenic and Salubrious.

I think this is my favorite, though:
On the corner of Craycroft Avenue and Speedway Blvd., about a mile and a half from where we live, is this gem. A florally-crowned blonde Gaia-esque figure bestows much-needed water on the desert, with a mysterious golden pearl floating above her palms...
For months, I've wanted to pull into the little parking lot to take a photo.
Breathtaking.
In all fairness, Tucson does have some good murals.
But this one is a perfect example of skill-but-no-taste...no?



transatlantic immigration worries...lunchtime news gleaning...

On my lunch-break, I came across this graph in a French newspaper; I'll translate the questions:

Do you share the view that...
"Immigration does not increase the crime rate"
"Immigrants take jobs away from citizens"



(--link to full article from today's Le Monde: click here.)
...interesting to compare what the general public in the U.S. and Europe thinks...
================================
Do you use a cell-phone? A lap-top? Recall the phrase 'blood-diamond?'
Well, now there's blood-tin-ore!
It's almost impossible to escape collective-unintentional-guilt in anything we consume...
The continuing exploitation and violence in Congo is linked to the metals necessary for our electronics:
click here for the International Herald Tribune article...
Now, back to work...

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

a couple dozen shots from this past Saturday


...a perfect, perfect autumn day in southern Arizona, I even have the day off, and I'm stuck inside with a cold!! The injustice, oh the injustice...

This past Saturday, before getting sick, I spent the day out of the city. I finally made it down to the Santa Rita mountains, about 40 miles south of Tucson, after living here almost a year and a half. The dawn drive down to Madera Canyon was chilly--in the 30's...

Before heading into the canyon, I noticed the sun was already illuminating the granite spire of Baboquivari peak, off to west. (Baboquivari, 7734', is the cosmological 'center of the world' in Tohono O'odham legend.) Ah, desert morning--it's not often you get to stand in the shadow of a mountain at sunrise and watch that shadow retreat rapidly towards you as the sun finally peaks over the ridge behind you and washes over your shoulders...


The desert slopes gently up from the Tucson basin to the mouth of the canyon, so that by the time you start hiking up the oak-and-pine-covered slopes, you're already over a mile high--a good 3000' feet higher than the city off to the north. (looking back toward Tucson and the Santa Catalina range from Madera Canyon, from about 6000' )

Finally--I was up in 'them thar hills,' the 'opposite view' from the one below:

(looking south from the Catalina Highway on Mt. Lemmon, toward the Santa Rita mountains; Mt. Wrightson, on the left, is the tallest peak, 9453', between here and Mexico.) Madera Canyon is in between those two highest peaks.


The term 'sky islands' is so appropriate to describe these mountain ecosystems in southern Arizona--when you're hiking up in the forest, looking back at the decidedly un-forested desert floor, you really get the sense of how isolated these mountain oases are, almost worlds unto themselves--where bears and mountain lions still live, due to the cooler and lusher ecosystem that elevation provides. It would seem that inbreeding would be an issue in those animal populations...


Just a couple of weeks ago, in Madera Canyon, a cougar had to be shot; it was getting too 'used to' people. In other words, instead of fleeing from humans, it was beginning to stalk them. I thought about that as I passed a deer hindquarter on the road. Seriously--a rear leg and part of the ribcage--it didn't look like roadkill, and it looked fresh. Either a mountain lion or a group of coyotes must have gotten to it overnight...As I reflected on the scene's carnivoral reality, just a few yards up, I saw a half-dozen or so deer, peacefully grazing by the side of the road. Hmm...

A few minutes later, when I got to the parking lot by the trailheads, there were already a few other cars, and I could hear a few hikers and birdwatchers, so I figured it wasn't too isolated--I really didn't want to meet the creature who had recently breakfasted on the deer--and that I would be safe...About halfway up the trail, the sun finally began to pour into the upper canyon, and the temperature rose quickly. I only went up as far as Josephine Saddle, 7080', about 2400' below Mt. Wrightson's pinnacled top:
Some locals had told me that Madera Canyon was a great place for wildflowers, but that this late in the year, there would probably be few left...
...but it hadn't frozen yet in the canyon, so there were just a few spots of color remaining:

Three years ago, there had been some forest fires up on the ridge:...seems to be recovering nicely as a meadow...

"Clear, blue sky" <--a non-imaginative cliché, perhaps, but how can you be more exact? A glorious morning...

I like the Korean expression for autumn: 'the sky is high and the horses are fat.' So, a 'high sky' for a November day...


Southern Arizona mountains, full of oak, juniper & pine, are not known for 'fall color,' (although at the very highest elevations, stands of quaking aspen can sometimes be found), so I thought I'd try a bit of black-and-white photograhy:


...but there are occasional spots of color to be seen:...and down along the creek bed, the Arizona sycamores put on a nice show, with their smooth bone-like trunks and papery orange leaves...Back down by the parking lot, I saw a few desert evening primroses still in bloom, including this one 'with room for two:'

After all morning in the relatively narrow canyon, it was good to get back out to the open grasslands...


But even out there, the lower canyon continues with its microclimate ecosystem; look at the line of bright green in the middle of this view--those are the tops of tall cottonwoods, along a deep creek-carved ravine:


...and in that ravine are little rapids and this fern-lined waterfall:



...a riparian oasis full of dragonflies in the afternoon light...




...and now something colorful: cochineal--the erstwhile source of most purplish-colored textile dye. I'd heard of it before, but never seen it. Well--now I know what it looks like. This white fuzzy stuff growing on this prickly pear cactus pad..

...when you scrape off a bit and crush it on a rock, you get this deep crimson-purple:

And that's cochineal. Cool, eh?


==========================

Instead of driving straight back to Tucson, I thought I'd drive through the Santa Rita foothills, through some open range country...

...and 'open range' it is; watch out for cows...

...back to paved road again on the other side of the mountains...

...and a little adobe ruin. So much boom-and-bust out west...you wonder what the stories are, behind each pile of wood and mud, slowly melding back into the landscape...
======================================

Frequently, along roads and at trailheads in national park and national forest land near the border, you run across signs like this:Whatever happened to Smokey the Bear and 'only you can prevent forest fires'? Well, now Smokey is also a border patrol agent, it seems...The realities of coyotes smuggling both desperate people and astronomically-profitable drugs over the border have become commonplace even in, and perhaps especially in, wilderness areas...

Earlier in the day, when I was up at Josephine Saddle, I was climbing through the undergrowth, off trail, trying to look for a clearing, to get an unobstructed view north toward Tucson and south toward Mexico...I never did succeed in getting that 'perfect panorama'...But I did get this view, through the branches, looking south to the hills and mountains of Sonora, Mexico:

And then a few minutes later, a few steps way, I noticed what must have been an unofficial overnight campsite--spots in the pine straw where people had obviously slept, ashy remains of campfires, a sock here, a plastic wrapper there, and then:

No empty "Gatorade" bottles here--instead, Mexican anti-dehydration formula. Sobering evidence of migration and non-recreational camping...

A beautiful, quiet, away-from-the-city, autumnal day in a majestic mountain setting...

...my most memorable image, though, is this empty bottle of strawberry-flavored suero. Ay ay ay...

Thursday, November 06, 2008

'Eternal Spring'/TV crowds/urban space/Fox & Crow

First, a 'shout-out' to our friends E-- & A--, who are about to leave (tomorrow) on a jaunt through central Mexico: ¡BUEN VIAJE!

Ahh, 'cities of eternal spring'...so many cities in Latin America have been so named--the climates of several cities in highland Mexico, Antigua in Guatemala, San José in Costa Rica, Medellín in Colombia, Cuenca in Ecuador, Trujillo and Arequipa in Peru, and others...
above--Arequipa, Perú
below--Antigua, Guatemala

For a couple of days now, Tucson has felt like that--October's long stretch of days in the 90's has come to an end, with chilly 40-degree-dawns and afternoons in the mid-70's: perfecto. Afternoon jogs include sightings of the occasional vermilion flycatcher, a hawk or two, and the great white heron who has settled into his pond at Fort Lowell Park...This is Tucson at its outdoors-best--its 'second spring' after the warm early fall...

Not 'eternal' by any means, this springlike weather in Tucson....but neither is summer permanent here, as many mistakenly think...(Incidentally, fifty years ago today, exactly, there was a freak snowstorm here that dumped half a foot of snow on the city and even killed a few boyscouts up in the mountains in blizzard-like conditions...)

My wife and I are coming to our peace with the fact that Tucson is sorely lacking in pedestrian urban culture. Okay. So be it. But being able to be outdoors under blue, relatively unpolluted, skies almost all year...with good (as in non suburban 'tex-mex-ish') Mexican food and coyotes and runners darting through neighborhoods with the mountains all around...appreciate what you have, 'bloom where you're planted,' right?

So, being (trans)planted here in Arizona, and having just gone up to Phoenix this past Sunday to visit friends, I found Tuesday night's concession-speech by Senator John McCain interesting--specifically, for its setting, at the Arizona Biltmore resort in Phoenix, which I have driven by...Posh and well-watered exclusivity.

During the concession-speech, I couldn't help but notice, as the TV cameras panned the audience, how 'lily-white,' as a British ex-pat friend put it, the crowd was. Seriously, not a single Hispanic or African-American or Asian face appeared for network television.

And then, across the country to Chicago's Grant Park, its lakefront 'front yard'--the people were very visibly multiethnic in Senator Obama's audience, and in a public, non-resort, space.

TV-camera chance? It does make you wonder what the respective parties are trying to project--although, I guess we don't have to 'wonder,' since it's all so, well, visible...

Chicago's Grant Park is one of urban America's great public spaces...a concept that escapes most city planners in this country...What would Tucson's equivalent be? Nada. Even Seattle, with its trademark Space Needle--the space underneath it is really to small to be 'the city's frontyard.' Back to Tucson--its 'front' approach--what you see when you drive in from the airport, or in from off the Interstate highways--it's terrible! (sad to say...)

Yeah, not every place can have a Champs-Elysées, Brandenburg Gate, or Central Park.

I guess I'll take my cactus-sunsets and be content.

=====================
On a completely different note,

if you would like to see a sock-puppet version of the XVI-century French fable,
Le Corbeau et Le Renard (The Crow & The Fox)
recorded earlier today, here in Tucson.

Pas parfait, mais authentique! ...et, au moins, les ados se sont amusés...




Saturday, November 01, 2008

saving daylight, saving time

In this morning's local paper, this article (click here) mentioned how the supposed benefits/effects of switching back and forth from daylight savings time to 'normal' time aren't really substantiated by data.

No matter...Most of you reading this have either already 'fallen back' or will have awaken on Sunday an hour "later" than the new "real" standard time.

But not here in Arizona--one of the few places in North America to buck the trend. Why? Simple answer--with the blast-furnace summer days, no one here wants an 'extra hour of daylight,' and so all year long, we simply go with the solar flow and stick to the same time.

During the decade I lived in Seattle, I would always be shocked by the sudden shift on that first Monday after the return to 'standard time' when I would find myself driving home from work in the newly nighted afternoon...
That extra hour of already dwindling light--suddenly subtracted from my day, an unfair dark-tax imposed on us by the autumnal clock!

No such sudden light-deficit here, where the fall shift is gradual, even if today's thermometer still registered around 90-degrees in the afternoon...

Incidentally, right now, this is the night/day division of the earth:

(click here to see current night/day view of the planet)


The shorter days have moved my Sat.-a.m. bike-ride starting time up to 6 a.m. now...but a few more weeks and it'll be too dark even then. About 2/3 of the way through the bike ride , the sun finally peaks over the Rincon mountains, illuminating the Santa Catalina mountains to the north:
(cell-phone camera-view from last Saturday; this morning was pretty much the same...)

All this obsessing over hours and minutes and angles of shadows...
...mortality driving me to be so time-conscious?
Is this the reality that lies behind the aesthetic appreciation of 'moments of beauty?'
Perhaps this is why photography is appreciated:
its attempts to freeze time, allowing our gaze to stand still forever, momentarily...

Out at the Arizona/Sonora Desert Museum the other day,
spending the afternoon with out-of-town guests,
friends I'd grown up with whom I'd not seen for a few years,
dragonflies landing ever so briefly in the sunlight,
as if time could pause on a branch, then freeze...

So...clocks all set?

W. H. Auden, the English poet, began one of his poems, a succinct description of what it feels like when a loved one dies, like this:

Stop all the clocks, cut off the telephone,
Prevent the dog from barking with a juicy bone,
Silence the pianos...

We stop to look at, and we try to remember to set clocks, and, not able to go back, we sometimes to try to stop what they tick off...

I'm not a huge fan of Charles Baudelaire, the 19th-century French poet, but his poem "L'Horloge" ("The Clock") comes to mind. In it, "The Clock" is personified as a 'sinister calm evil god' that 'time is a greedy gambler who always wins' and 'The Second whispers three thousand six hundred times every hour: 'remember!''...

Horloge ! dieu sinistre, effrayant , impassible,
Dont le doigt nous menace et nous dit : "Souviens-toi!
Les vibrantes Douleurs dans ton cour plein d'effroi
Se planteront bientôt comme dans une cible ;

Le Plaisir vaporeux fuira vers l'horizon
Ainsi qu'une sylphide au fond de la coulisse ;
Chaque instant te dévore un morceau du délice
A chaque homme accordé pour toute sa saison

Trois mille six cents fois par heure, la Seconde
Chuchote : Souviens-toi ! - Rapide, avec sa voix
D'insecte , Maintenant dit : je suis Autrefois,
Et j'ai pompé ta vie avec ma trompe immonde !

Remember ! Souviens-toi ! prodigue ! Esto memor !
(Mon gosier de métal parle toute les langues.)
Les minutes, mortel folatre, sont des gangues
Qu'il ne faut pas lâcher sans en extraire l'or !

Souviens toi que le temps est un joueur avide
Qui gagne sans tricher, à tout coup ! c'est la loi,
Le jour décroît ; la nuit augmente ; souviens-toi !
Le gouffre a toujours soif ; la clepsydre se vide.

Tantôt sonnera l'heure où le divin Hasard,
Où l'auguste Vertu, ton épouse encor vierge,
Où le Repentir même (oh ! la dernière auberge !) ,
Où tout dira : Meurs, vieux lâche ! il est trop tard !"

(click here for an English translation)

And each morning and night we look at ourselves in the bathroom mirror.

I'm reminded now, only somewhat morbidly, although not sadly, of Jean Cocteau, the French filmmaker and poet, who wrote this:

"...you, look at your life in a mirror and you see Death at work.”

What a soundtrack to brush your teeth by, eh?

Echoes of Ecclesiastes: "Better is it to go to the house of mourning than to the banquet house, because that is the end of all mankind; and the one alive should take it to his heart..." And yet it is not a diatribe against life: "all is vanity" while at the same time "I have come to know that there is nothing better for them than to rejoice and to do good during one's life; and also that every man should eat and indeed drink and see good for all his hard work. It is the gift of God."

It's been a good day, really: morning bike ride, a coyote crossing my path; getting to know new friends; live music in a sycamore-shaded courtyard; dinner around a firepit in the desert night; and looking forward to driving up to Phoenix tomorrow to see old friends...

A good autumn night from Tucson.
Happy trails.
Enjoy the changes.








Monday, October 27, 2008

"The Omnivore's hundred"

I was sent this list below today; I include it for your perusal.
It's from a British foodie-blog...
(Thanks, J. & M. from SC, for passing it along!)
And, following the instructions, I have bolded 'my' items. I'm curious what 'yours' would be...
======================================================

THE OMNIVORE's HUNDRED
Here’s a chance for a little interactivity for all the bloggers out there. Below is a list of 100 things that I think every good omnivore should have tried at least once in their life. The list includes fine food, strange food, everyday food and even some pretty bad food - but a good omnivore should really try it all. Don’t worry if you haven’t, mind you; neither have I, though I’ll be sure to work on it. Don’t worry if you don’t recognise everything in the hundred, either; Wikipedia has the answers.

Here’s what I want you to do:
1) Copy this list into your blog or journal, including these instructions.
2) Bold all the items you’ve eaten.
3) Cross out any items that you would never consider eating.
4) Optional extra: Post a comment here at
www.verygoodtaste.co.uk linking to your results.

====================================
1. Venison
2. Nettle tea
3.
Huevos rancheros
4. Steak tartare
5. Crocodile
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue
8. Carp
9. Borscht
10. Baba ghanoush
11. Calamari
12. Pho
13. PB&J sandwich
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart
16. Epoisses
17. Black truffle
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
19. Steamed pork buns
20. Pistachio ice cream
21. Heirloom tomatoes
22. Fresh wild berries
23. Foie gras
24. Rice and beans
25. Brawn, or head cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
27. Dulce de leche
28. Oysters
29. Baklava
30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl
33. Salted lassi
34. Sauerkraut
35. Root beer float
36. Cognac with a fat cigar
37. Clotted cream tea
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
39. Gumbo
40. Oxtail
41. Curried goat
42. Whole insects
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
46. Fugu
47. Chicken tikka masala
48. Eel
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut
50. Sea urchin
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi
53. Abalone
54. Paneer
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal
56. Spaetzle
57. Dirty gin martini
58. Beer above 8% ABV
59. Poutine
60. Carob chips
61. S’mores
62. Sweetbreads
63. Kaolin
64. Currywurst
65. Durian
66. Frogs’ legs
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantain
70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
71. Gazpacho
72. Caviar and blini
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost, or brunost
75. Roadkill
76. Baijiu
77. Hostess Fruit Pie
78. Snail
79. Lapsang souchong
80. Bellini
81. Tom yum
82. Eggs Benedict
83. Pocky
84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant.
85. Kobe beef
86. Hare
87. Goulash
88. Flowers
89. Horse
90. Criollo chocolate
91. Spam
92. Soft shell crab
93. Rose harissa
94. Catfish
95. Mole poblano
96. Bagel and lox
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
100. Snake

(PS. The list has generated a lot of questions, so I’ve created an FAQ for it over here!)
================================================

Monday, October 20, 2008

The four common factors...

The four common factors of most rattlesnake-bite-victims--wanna know what they are? We learned them yesterday at an exhibit/demonstration at the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum, where we took our out-of-town guests.

I'll get around to it in a minute...

This past weekend, some old friends came to visit--their first time to Arizona. So in addition to the obligatory culinary introduction to cheese crisp and Sonoran-style hot dogs washed down with horchata, we did the de rigueur drive over Gate's Pass, among the Saguaros on the way to the Desert Museum.

One animal I'd never noticed before--the tropical margay (tigrillo in Spanish), a nocturnal feline--a kitten-faced small jaguar-like animal with tremendous eyes that lives as far north as the southern edge of the Sonoran desert:

It took a moment to look up from its avian snack (ay ay ay, the crunch crunch crunch) to look our way...

...and, of course, more familiar creatures, the park's most famous residents; the mountain lions, whose exhibit has a thick glass window up in the craggy nook that allows visitors catnap views like this one:

...from cats to birds, now. Extreme southeastern Arizona--the Chiricahua mountain range--is the northernmost habitat limit for certain kinds of parrots. Very few, if any, remain (alas), but here's an example:

On a couple of our past visits, this guy has spoken, entertaining the tourists in the aviary...Yesterday he was silent, though.

I haven't had time to look these next couple of guys up, (maybe a more audobonically-aware reader can help us out?) but they sure are vivid:


...on to reptiles. We attended a lecture/demonstration on Gila monsters and rattlers. Gila monsters are one of only two truly venomous lizards in the world:

If you get bit by one, and can't detach it from your body, you're supposed to make your way to the Emergency room, where the staff will pry the gnawing critter off you. Then--you'll be ticketed. Seriously. These slow guys only bite in defense. If you get bit, it means you were harrassing it. And it's a protected species, so you'll be fined. Double owie.

They spend approximately 90% of their lives underground, so seeing them is a special occasion. About a year ago, I saw my first (and only) Gila in the wild; I was on a walk in Sabino Canyon with a friend visiting from France, and within one half-hour, he got a wildlife show: we saw the Gila monster, a rattler, several deer, many cottontail and jackrabbits, and roadrunners.

Okay, so now--I arrive at 'the four common factors.' As fearsome as rattlesnakes are, statistically you are more likely to be in a plane crash than to be bit by a rattlesnake, who will only ever bite in self-defense. The actual factual four common characteristics, now, that most rattlesnake victims share, according to anecdotal evidence from medical caregivers:

1. They are male. 2. They are tattooed. 3. They are not in possession of all their teeth. 4. They've been drinking beer.

'Seriously, I can't make this stuff up folks', the herpetologist-presenter told the laughing audience.

Hearing that profile, I felt pretty safe, then. But it did sober us, especially my wife, as we thought back to her close (one and only, so far) encounter with a rattler back in the spring...


A few more factoids about rattlesnakes--you canNOT tell their age by counting the segments on their rattles; that's a myth. And, unlike most reptiles, they don't lay eggs; they give birth to live young. And the average cost for each little vial of anti-venom, in case you're interested in medical costs, is three THOUSAND dollars. The average number of vials of anti-venom needed to treat a bite-victim: TWENTY. (All the rattlesnake anti-venom that is used in the US is manufactured in Britain, incidentally.)

From the deadly to the cute. Come on, you gotta admit it:


Prairie-dogs. Common in much of the Western U.S. Formerly common in the higher-elevation grasslands of Arizona; now extinct in the wild here.

=========================

And, tonight's last shot, taken this afternoon when I got home; the eastern sky was dotted with clouds and a few bands of isolated rain trying to make it to the ground, but evaporating before getting even halfway to the ground. The Apaches used to call this phenomenon "walking rain"...Yep, the air is just that dry right now.
C'est la belle saison...venez nous voir!